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Old 01-11-2013, 06:33 PM   #11
Jeff Sanders
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 3

The above two saddles... The old one is an old Visalia that my step father rode everyday until a horse fliped on it and broke the tree about 15 years ago. The other one is my everday working saddle made by Terrance McGowan. The one I posted with the flower tooling was made for me in Europe but has a McGowan tree and the other one was made entirely by Terrance McGowan.

Last edited by Jeff Sanders; 01-11-2013 at 06:35 PM.
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Old 01-11-2013, 07:01 PM   #12
Steve C
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: "Hampshire Station" Merriwa, NSW Australia
Posts: 91

They are fine looking saddles, Thanks for the pics.

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Old 01-15-2013, 03:47 PM   #13
Out West Saddlery
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Pagosa Springs, CO
Posts: 4

We believe the main cause of horses being "cinchie" or having a bad attitude is because the saddle doesn't fit right and is causing pain. Some are more stoic than others just like us. If we are asked to go excercise in shoes that are pinching and are uncomfortable most of us won't have a very good attitude for long.....sometimes right away, sometimes it's later just like the horse.

The main purpose for a back cinch is for roping to keep the saddle from coming up so high when pressure is applied to the horn. We believe if you use a back cinch to have about 2 fingers of space between the horse and back cinch. We have found for those very flat backed horses that no matter how well the saddle fits it wants to roll we set those up with a pack cinch which distributes the pressure over a large area in the middle and that stabilizes the saddle and is comfortable. Some also need a breast collar and crupper also.

Most horses today are not flat bellied like they used to be so the cinch wants to work its way to between the front leg and the belly. So a centerfire or 3/4 rigging doesn't tend to want to stay where it is intended and will pull the saddle too far forward. We found the most universal rigging to be a 7/8 and for many gaited horses full rigged or use a pack cinch. In all saddles the rocker is designed for the front of the tree bar to be right behind the shoulder blade, an incorrect rigging for a horse will cause the saddle to go too far back or forward.

For the best feel of the horse we like the half seats the best because there is no rise at all, with a full seat with no build up there is still a slight unavoidable rise.

Some nice looking saddles!
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Old 01-16-2013, 01:03 AM   #14
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 1

Here is my saddle again. Like I said, I am glad that you like it.
It is made by Terrance McGowan also. I gave him the freedom to do what he can the best: building traditional saddles with a perfect seat - and put some of my ideas into it. In the end it turned out really well and I love it. This seat makes it easy to sit straight and balanced, it is completely different to so many comercial made saddles which forces you back in a chair seat.

In Germany we donīt have the opportunity to work cattle very often, so my main focus was to get a western saddle for dressage work. I got what I wanted AND it is a perfect saddle to work cows and rope too
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Old 01-17-2013, 09:49 PM   #15
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 116

I really like the way this saddle fits your horse and the seat that it has. Looks like you have some really long saddle strings. Thanks for sharing, sorry about the confusion. That is a well made saddle, do you have any pictures of you doing dressage work in it? Or roping?
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Old 01-22-2013, 10:47 PM   #16
Princeton Blue Elch
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 2

really helpful article, thank you for sharing
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